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If you own a home in the Sunshine State, hurricane insurance Florida usually isn’t a separate policy. Most standard HO-3 homeowners policies include windstorm coverage, which is what pays for hurricane wind damage. Flood (storm surge and rising water) is not part of your homeowners policy—you’d buy flood insurance separately. Keep that split in mind as you read the rest; it’s the #1 point that trips people up.
What your policy typically covers in a hurricane
When a hurricane hits and wind damages your place, your homeowners policy usually helps with:
- Dwelling (coverage A): The structure—roof, walls, windows, built-in fixtures.
- Other structures (Coverage B): Fences, sheds, detached garages.
- Personal property (Coverage C): Furniture, electronics, clothes.
- Loss of use / Additional Living Expense (ALE): Hotel or rental costs if your home is unlivable while repairs are made.
- Liability: If someone gets hurt on your property and you’re found responsible.
Two key details you don’t want to miss:
- Wind first, then rain: Interior water damage is usually covered only if wind first created an opening (e.g., roof shingles blow off, window breaks) and rain enters through that opening.
- “X-wind” or wind exclusions exist: Some Florida policies exclude wind by endorsement (common near the coast). If you have a mortgage, your lender will almost always require wind coverage. If your private policy excludes wind, you might be eligible for a wind-only policy through Citizens in certain areas. Ask your agent what you actually have in writing.
The hurricane deductible (separate from your normal deductible)
Florida policies use a special hurricane deductible for wind damage that happens during a hurricane (as defined by the National Hurricane Center). You’ll usually pick one of these options when you buy your policy:
- $500 (if available for your dwelling limit)
- 2% of Coverage A
- 5% of Coverage A
- 10% of Coverage A
Example: If your home is insured for $400,000 and you choose a 2% hurricane deductible, you’ll pay the first $8,000 of covered hurricane wind damage before the insurer pays the rest.
One calendar year, not per storm (big win for you)
Florida’s hurricane deductible applies once per calendar year with the same insurer (or insurer group). If a second hurricane hits in the same year, you either pay whatever balance is left on that hurricane deductible (if you didn’t meet it the first time) or your standard “all other perils” deductible—whichever is higher. Switch carriers mid-year and you don’t get credit for what you already paid, so think twice about moving your policy during hurricane season.
When the hurricane deductible applies
It kicks in only during the official “hurricane period”: from when a hurricane warning is issued for any part of Florida until 72 hours after the last hurricane watch/warning for any part of Florida ends. If there’s wind damage outside that window (say, a non-hurricane summer storm), your normal deductible applies.
Wind vs. water: what isn’t covered without a separate policy
- Flood (storm surge, rising water) is not covered by homeowners. You’ll need NFIP or private flood insurance. The NFIP usually has a 30-day waiting period, so don’t wait for a named storm to pop up before you buy.
- Sewer or drain backup usually needs an add-on endorsement.
- Wear and tear / maintenance (old roofs, rot, rust) isn’t covered.
Takeaway: If your area can flood (and in Florida, many do), add flood insurance early—ideally before June 1.
“Hurricane insurance Florida cost”: what to expect in 2025
Let’s tackle the question you’re probably typing into Google: how much is hurricane insurance in Florida? There isn’t a single number because:
- Your ZIP code (distance from the coast, local loss history)
- Construction details (roof shape, roof deck attachment, opening protection)
- Home age and building code
- Coverage amounts and deductibles
- Claim history and credit-based insurance score
- Which carrier you’re with
…all push your rate up or down.
Recent 2025 snapshots show Florida’s average homeowners premium ranging roughly $5,700–$8,800+ statewide, with some coastal cities topping $10,000 for a $300k dwelling limit. That’s a wide spread because Florida’s market is still volatile, and coastal ZIPs can run much higher than inland towns. Use this as a ballpark only; your actual quote can differ a lot.
Why the gap? Different data sets, different coverage assumptions, and very different local risks. Treat any state “average” as a starting point—not a promise.
9 smart ways to lower what you pay
Florida law and rating rules reward homes that can take a hit. That means you have real levers to pull:
- Wind-mitigation inspection (OIR-B1-1802):
Get a licensed inspector to document features that resist wind. Insurers must give credits/discounts for qualifying features. These can be meaningful. - Roof geometry:
Hip roofs generally rate better than gable roofs. If you’re re-roofing, ask your contractor about how the design affects credits. - Roof deck attachment & secondary water barrier:
Using ring-shank nails, proper spacing, and adding a secondary water barrier can unlock credits and reduce leaks if shingles blow off. - Opening protection:
Miami-Dade or Florida Building Code–approved shutters or impact-rated windows/doors typically earn strong credits. - Upgrade during re-roof:
Prove your roof meets current code and keep your documentation. Insurers price to construction details they can verify. - Bump your hurricane deductible (carefully):
A higher hurricane deductible can drop the premium, but have an emergency fund that matches it. No point picking 10% if you can’t cover that out of pocket. - Bundle & loyalty discounts:
Home + auto with the same group can help. Ask each carrier how they apply bundling in Florida. - Right-size personal property and ALE:
Don’t underinsure, but don’t pay for limits you’ll never use. Update your inventory so your Coverage C is accurate. - Shop early (and honestly):
Carriers tighten underwriting as storms approach. Get quotes months before renewal and answer every wind-mit question exactly—credits can be removed if the data isn’t supported.
Common Florida gotchas to watch for
- Actual Cash Value (ACV) roofs: Some policies pay less on older roofs (depreciation) unless you have replacement cost. Know which you have.
- Named storm vs hurricane wording: Make sure your deductible language matches Florida statute (the true hurricane window) and not every “named storm.”
- Wind exclusion signed by you: If you ever signed a wind exclusion, that means no hurricane wind coverage under that policy.
- Citizens wind-only eligibility: If the private market won’t write wind where you live, you may qualify for a wind-only policy through Citizens.
- Ordinance or Law coverage: Older homes often need code-upgrade coverage when repairing. Check your limit (often 10% of Coverage A by default) and consider raising it.
- Flood gap: Storm surge destroys plenty of homes that never had standing water before. If you’re near a bay, river, or low-lying area, add flood.
Claims timing in Florida (don’t miss the clock)
If a storm hits, you must notify your insurer within 1 year of the date of loss for a new claim. Supplemental claims (extra damage found later or additional costs) generally must be filed within 18 months of the date of loss. For hurricanes, the “date of loss” is the landfall date (as verified by NOAA). Put those dates in your calendar the day after a storm. Missing them can bar your claim.
Quick claims checklist you can follow:
- Protect from further damage (tarp, board up). Keep receipts.
- Document everything (photos, video, itemized list).
- Report the claim early (you can add details later).
- Save samples (shingles, damaged materials) if the adjuster asks.
- Track all living expenses if you’re using ALE.
- Get reputable estimates—licensed, insured contractors only.
- Stay reachable and respond to any document requests on time.
How much coverage is “enough” for you?
Use your Coverage A (dwelling) as your anchor. Rebuild costs in Florida change fast—from labor to materials to code upgrades. Ask your agent to run a replacement-cost estimator yearly. Then line up the rest:
- Personal property (C): Use a home inventory app to tally what you own.
- Loss if use (ALE): Think about your local rental market if you were out 4–6 months.
- Liability: Consider at least $300k–$500k; umbrellas are cheap and worth pricing.
- Deductibles: Make sure your savings can handle your hurricane deductible and your AOP deductible in the same year.
Bottom line: your quick action plan
- Confirm you do have wind coverage (not an x-wind policy).
- Decide on a hurricane deductible you can actually pay on short notice.
- Book a wind-mitigation inspection and send the OIR-B1-1802 to your carrier.
- Add flood insurance now if you need it (remember the 30-day wait).
- Save your insurer’s claims phone number in your phone.
- If a storm hits, report the claim within 1 year and keep receipts, photos, and timelines tidy.
You’ve got this. A few smart moves ahead of time can shave your premium, improve your payout, and spare you headaches when the wind picks up.
Wrap-up: your next steps
Review your declarations page, check your hurricane deductible, and schedule a wind-mit inspection. If you’re near the coast (or in a flood-prone spot), add flood insurance before the season heats up. Want a simple rule? If you’d lose sleep without it, get the coverage in place now—before the next cone shows up on TV.


